Amami

Amami
Amami Oshima, my new home

Saturday, September 30, 2017

Kayaking Through the Mangroves

Amami is home to a rather large growth of mangroves, and a popular tourist attraction is to kayak down the river and enjoy the view. The Amami and Kikai ALTs got together this weekend to try it for ourselves. Luckily the weather was perfect, with blue skies and not a cloud in sight. 

The Friday night before, we all met up at Shimatofu for dinner.

I got the mabo tofu set. The restaurant also offers complimentary mikki, a sweet drink.


On Saturday morning Nat and I drove up to Naze to meet with Mario and the Naze/Kasari ladies (because it wasn't possible for all 5 of them to fit in Julia's car) and then back down to Sumiyo where the park is located. We paid the 1500 yen per person fee and drove down to the bank where a bunch of kayaks and life jackets were waiting. After a quick paddling lesson we hopped in and set off. 

L-R: Mario, me, Sarah, Nat, Julia, Dineo, Tember

Mario and me in our kayak

The mangroves. 


The surrounding view is beautiful too.

After we finished we went to Noa Noa, a local curry place and one of the few that offers Indian-style curry. Our ALT friend Vijay (works in Uken through Interac) frequents this place often enough that they remember him...and he always goes for the max spiciness level. (I'll just stick with level 1, thanks.) Even though they didn't have enough naan bread for all of us, we left with our stomachs happy to go hang out at Julia's apartment until we said goodbye for the night.

Saturday, August 19, 2017

Summer Festival Season (2017)

With summer comes the humidity and stifling heat, but also a handful of summer festivals. The photos pretty much speak for themselves, so here they are.

Naze Hanabi Taikai, August 10, 2017

Fireworks in the Naze port.
Our friend Seido found us a nice spot to eat and watch the show.


Kasarinchu, a famous local band from northern Amami, played at the festival!

Me with the new ALTs and our Japanese friends.


 Kasari Matsuri, August 13, 2017


Grilled squid - one of my favorite matsuri snacks.
I waited in line for a half hour, but it was totally worth it.


Koniya Minato Matsuri, August 19, 2017


My friend Minori (right) singing shimauta the night before.
After her performance we went off and bought lots of food.

Saturday afternoon was the Minato Matsuri parade.
I didn't dance in it this year, opting to watch the procession instead.

My students! (They said it was ok to post this photo)
The Koniya High School truck. It carries tea and water for the students.

The city hall's display.
Nathaniel helped hoist this thing with the rest of the city hall staff.

Koniya at night, after the parade, lit by festival lanterns.

Monday, July 17, 2017

2017 ALT Goodbye party

It's that time of year again. We have to say goodbye to the ALTs that are finishing their contracts and returning home. This year, among the South Island ALTs (Amami, Kikai, Tokunoshima, Okinoerabu), four of us are leaving: Megan, Ching, and Jacob from Amami, and Dyon from Tokunoshima. To send them off in the grandest way possible we had a 3-day-long goodbye party at a rented beach house.


Loads of people, ALTs and friends alike, came to party. We spent the weekend snorkeling at Amami's picture-perfect beaches, and had a big barbecue on Sunday night. Seido and I performed a cello and piano duet version of "Merry Christmas Mr. Lawrence" after we couldn't eat any more. People gave speeches, and many tears were shed as we looked back on the great year(s) we had together.


Best of luck to you guys returning home. We'll miss you!

Sunday, July 9, 2017

Suio Ryu training retreat

Over the weekend of July 7-9 I had the privilege of attending the annual training retreat, or gasshuku, for the classical sword school I study: Suiō-ryū Iai Kenpō (水鷗流 居合 剣法). Founded a few years after the turn of the 17th Century, the curriculum of the Ryū has been passed down from headmaster to headmaster and into the present day, now with official branches all over the world. If you are interested in learning more about Suiō-ryū's history, see the US branch's website: http://www.suioryu-usa.org/

(I started my own training as an undergraduate at UC Irvine, which gave me a deeper appreciation for traditional Japanese culture and history, which in turn led me to apply for the JET Programme.)

On Thursday July 6 I flew out from Amami to Narita Airport, and took the Shinkansen down to the Suiō-ryū HQ in Shizuoka. I was just in time to catch the last hour of that evening's practice, which was attended mostly by foreigners who had come to participate in the retreat alongside their Japanese counterparts. Among those filling the space were folks from Finland, Hong Kong, Tahiti, and the US.

I stayed in Mishima that night with an Airbnb, and in the morning, my host kindly offered to show me around.

Some deer in an enclosure at Mishima Taisha shrine. The shrine itself had nearly no guests that morning, which made for a peaceful and tranquil visit.

A water fountain by the park. The two figures move up and down, pumping fresh spring water (direct from Mr. Fuji) out of the bamboo spout. 

My host Asahi and me. Originally from Okinawa, Asahi moved to Mishima for college.

Soon it was time to head to the retreat venue, a hotel at the base of Mt. Fuji. The hotel gym/sports hall served as our training space. Training on Friday began at 1 pm and ended at 5. I estimate this first night saw a group of about 80 people total. Following training, we got our room assignments and were free to shower and eat before post-dinner practice started at 8:30.

My roomate Romilda, from Tahiti, and me.

Friday night's dinner. Pork cutlet, mini-hot pot, sashimi, various small dishes, miso soup, and rice.

Saturday morning's training began after breakfast and went until noon, where we were joined by more members from around Japan (they had work on Friday) for a total of about 120 people. After lunch, practice continued from 1:30 to 4:30, and after dinner from 8 to 9:30.




Most people are practicing with training swords (that handle like the real thing but are blunted for safety), but the senior students with decades of experience are using live blades. There's no way to tell from a distance which is which. With so many people with swords in one space, it was very important to be aware of one's surroundings.

San Diegans unite - never mind that two out of the three of us are expats.

Romilda and me practicing paired techniques during some free time.


The final session ended at noon on Sunday, marking the end of a fun, sweat-filled weekend of training and good company. I enjoyed meeting the Hong Kong group for the first time, which I'm happy to say became an official affiliated branch during Saturday's promotion ceremony. After taking a photo with the headmaster and saying my goodbyes I returned to Mishima to spend the night.
But a trip to Shizuoka is not complete without feasting on a regional specialty and my favorite Japanese food: unagi, or freshwater eel, grilled to perfection atop a bowl of rice. My Airbnb host Asahi recommended a good, but not too expensive, unagi restaurant down the street. 

Delicious. The meal set came with two large cuts of eel on rice, soup, and a small dish of pickled vegetables.

By "not too expensive" I mean $30 for what you see above - a standard unagi meal set. There are a lot of old, famous establishments in Mishima that charge upwards of $60 for the most basic cuts. But I have to be honest, this was the best meal of the weekend. The eel was soft and flaky, not overpowered by too much sauce, and generously portioned.

I returned to Amami the way I came - Shinkansen to Tokyo/Narita, and a flight from Narita back to the island - but with bruises and aches as evidence of the progress made during the weekend retreat. I'll be sure to practice hard until next time.


Sunday, July 2, 2017

2017 Amami Sea Kayak Marathon weekend

The Annual Amami Sea Kayak Marathon in Kakeroma was the first weekend of July. While I didn't participate in the race itself because of conflicting responsibilities with the Orchestra, I went to cheer on my friends who entered and to enjoy the post-race festival. But before all that, on Saturday July 1 the Amami ALTs spent the day exploring Kakeroma.

We met Mr. Daisuke through a mutual friend, and he took us around the island to see the main sights. We were also joined by Micah, a former ALT on Tokunoshima, who came back to visit and participate in the marathon.

A perfect view of Oshima strait from a Kakeroma mountaintop.

Our ALT group posing by the pier. Photo by Daisuke-san.
From L-R: Jacob, Micah, Megan, Ching, Maranda
Daisuke-san also took us to an old, famous tree: the Takena Gajumaru.

A wooden sign featuring Totoro helpfully points the way.

Our group next to the Gajumaru tree. Photo by Mr. Daisuke.

After our sightseeing tour, Mr. Daisuke dropped us off at one of Kakeroma's many beaches, where we had lunch (prepared by the old lady who oversees the only shop) and spent the day snorkeling and swimming. On the ferry back to Koniya we even spotted a sea turtle!

Sunday arrived, and we made our way down to the port where the kayaks were waiting (all racers had to register on Saturday morning). The race teams featuring ALTs were as follows: Nat and his girlfriend Ai, Ching and Micah, and Megan and her friend Mao.

The kayaks are in the water and the participants are ready to head to the starting line!

The start of the race is signaled by a lively taiko team of kids.
At this point I left for orchestra rehearsal in Naze, and came back late afternoon to a post-marathon festival, complete with food stands selling yakisoba and kakigori among other foods, and a stage.


High school students performed hula. 

A sumo monomane (comedy impersonation) performer dancing with two volunteers

Amami Shima-uta (traditional island song), accompanied by shamisen.

Amami-born shimauta-sha and pop singer Hajime Chitose gave a concert!

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Snorkeling, fishing, and beaches, oh my!

With the arrival of spring I got a few opportunities to enjoy the beautiful beaches and marine life here in Setouchi. On Wednesday, April 5th, some friends, some friends of friends, and I gathered on the Koniya dock and waited for our guide for the day. The plan was to eventually make our way to the backside of Kakeroma, fishing and snorkeling along the way, before coming back to Koniya.



As we sailed west out of Oshima Strait separating Amami from Kakeroma we tried to go whale watching, but since peak season is in the winter, we didn't end up seeing any, although we did hear a few sing through the underwater mic we had on board.


Soon it was time for lunch. Some of the more skilled fishermen and women among our group caught a bucketfull of various fish, keeping the bigger ones and letting the smaller ones go. Our guide docked the boat on Yoro (the island west of Ukejima on the map above), and we all got out to get a bit of solid land under our feet again.


Miso Soup!
Mizuno-san preparing sashimi

My friend Mizuno-san, who runs an amazing restaurant in Koniya, got to work making miso soup with the fish we caught, and put another one of our group members to work de-scaling the fish. The biggest one was to be prepared as sashimi, and the others tossed into the soup. Paired with some pre-made onigiri, it was the freshest meal I've ever had in my life.

When we were finished, we changed into wetsuits for snorkeling. The water temperature was still too cold to go in with only swimsuits, and was cold even with wetsuits, but everyone got used to it quickly. The clouds were clearing around this time too, so having the sun out helped.


Hanmya island
Our last main stop was Hanmya island, a tiny uninhabited island between Ukejima and Yoroshima whose main attraction is a large sandy slope, about 60 meters from bottom to top. The island has no dock, so we had to swim to shore. Apparently climbing the sand slope is a must for visitors, but it was particularly challenging because the sand was completely dry and difficult to get a purchase on. It also didn't help that the slope itself was about 40 degrees, so because of the angle and the loose sand, with each step you took you slid down about half of it. But all of us made it up eventually, where we sat and enjoyed the sunshine before running back down and swimming back to the boat.

On the way back to Koniya I saw a flying fish, but I was unable to snap a picture of it before it disappeared under the surface again.


Barbecue over a campfire. Delicious!
Setting off sparklers at night

That evening the same group (plus/minus a few people) went to a small campsite in Sumiyo town to barbecue, set off sparklers, and stay the night. Mr. Mizuno had prepared a lot of food and by the time we finished everyone was stuffed! Thus a long day ended with good company.

Thursday, March 30, 2017

Goodbyes and Hellos - Graduation and Staff changes

In Japan, public servants such as teachers and police officers rotate workplaces every few years within the prefecture. April is a time for new beginnings, but it also means saying goodbye to graduating students and co-workers you've gotten to know as they move on to their next assignment.

The banner reads: Kagoshima prefecture, Koniya Senior High School.
GRADUATION CEREMONY. Left: a student is waiting her turn to receive
her graduation certificate. Center: a male teacher hands each certificate to
the principal, who in turn hands it to the student with a bow. Photo taken by
school staff and used here with permission.
The first goodbye was to the 3rd-year students, whose graduation ceremony was held on March 1st. Some were going to college, and others were starting work. Either way, I'll miss seeing them around the school.  Unlike western graduation ceremonies, which are loud and celebratory, Japanese graduation ceremonies are more serious and solemn in tone.

The students are led into the gym (which was set-up the day prior by the 1st and 2nd-year students) by their homeroom teachers, walking slowly while the wind ensemble club played. Everyone was dressed in their best suit except for the (female) homeroom teacher of class 2, K-sensei, who wore hakama, a traditional pleated skirt, which, outside of martial arts practice is really only associated with graduation. Unlike graduation in the west, which is attended only by the graduates and their parents, 1st and 2nd-year students are required to attend as well.

After a speech by the principal, each of the graduates is called by name to the stage. There is a lot of bowing, first to the special guests (education officials, local government, etc.), then to the seated vice principal and school staff before climbing the steps to face the watching students and parents. The certificate is bestowed (with a bow), and the student returns to his or her seat by running the same procedure in reverse.

Following the certificate portion of the ceremony, various school officials came up to the stage to give speeches. A 3rd-year student representative gave a speech on behalf of the graduates to their kouhai (junior students), and a 2nd-year student representative gave a speech on behalf of the 1st and 2nd-years to their sempai graduates. One more rousing rendition of the school song by all, and the ceremony was over.

The graduates are officially done with High School, but their kouhai aren't! Classes continue until the end of the month.

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The soubetsukai programme.
At the soubetsukai. So much food!
On March 24, the school year officially concluded with the closing and farewell ceremonies. This year, six staff members finished their contracts with Koniya High School: the principal (60 years old a
nd thus retiring), the office manager, three teachers, and an office staff member. Among the three teachers was my supervisor, F-sensei, who I had a good working relationship with, so I was sad to find out she was leaving after only one year. Some of the recent graduates returned to see them off, and it was a bit strange seeing them at school in their street clothes, and for the girls, wearing makeup. (High school students are not allowed makeup at school.) After the ceremony was over, some students presented the staff with flowers before saying goodbye with tears in their eyes.

The same evening, the last big work party of the school year, called soubetsukai, was held at Ajizono restaurant. A special table was set aside for the guests of honor - the six leaving staff members. Also in attendance were the PTA president and some other important non-staff members of the school.
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Saying goodbye to M-sensei from Koniya port.
Look at those streamers!
Saying goodbye to our two departing office staff members.
The wind was blowing all the streamers from different groups
together so you could no longer tell whose were whose!
The soubetsukai was not the final goodbye, as teachers still needed to move out of their desks and make travel arrangements. First to leave from the Koniya port for his new assignment on the Kagoshima mainland was Mr. M-sensei, As the ship was readying for departure, those who came to see him off held onto one roll of streamers. M-sensei held the other end. As the ship pulled away from the dock, the shouted farewells were drowned out by the horn, the streamers unrolled in our hands before finally running out, and we waved until the ship was out of sight. Even though I didn't know M-sensei all that well, it was a really emotional send-off.

Next was the Principal, who was going back to his home on the Kagoshima mainland. We said goodbye in front of the school before he and his wife drove off to the airport.

The two office staff were leaving together from Naze port on the same ship to Kagoshima, and my supervisor on a different ship to Tokunoshima the next morning, so a contingent of staff members carpooled up to say goodbye. Unlike the farewell from Koniya port, many other schools were bidding farewell to their staff members, so the shipside streamer ritual was sight to behold. I wish all of the staff members well as they transition to their new assignments.

Farewell banner for one of the office staff  (name redacted
for privacy). Poster botton row reads "Thank you! Koniya High
School" in the local island dialect.

Farewell banner for my supervisor, F-sensei (name redacted
for privacy). The middle rows says "Thank you very much!"

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Of course, with old staff leaving comes new staff arriving! This year, five people joined the Koniya HS staff. One female teacher had previously taught here 6 years prior, but everyone else was new to the islands. We had a kangeikai, or welcome party, for them at the same restaurant the goodbye party was held, so the two events were like mirrors of one another. A good time was had by all, and I look forward to working with everyone this upcoming school year.